Many people know how the Cajuns got to Louisiana. French settlers in Canada’s eastern provinces were driven from their homes by the British in 1755 and forced to move to other North American colonies, most famously Louisiana. Their original settlement area, called “Acadie” (Acadia) in French, became the word “Cajun” (“Acadian”) in English.
Fewer people realize that Acadian culture is alive and well in Canada. New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, Canada’s original Acadie, have witnessed a resurgence of interest in Acadian heritage and culture in recent decades. New Brunswick is Canada’s only bilingual province – signs and official documents are in both English and French, and many residents are completely bilingual – and Nova Scotia has also taken steps to reclaim its Acadian history.
A first-time visitor to New Brunswick will instantly notice the province’s dedication to its French roots. Nearly every sign is in both French and English. You’ll see “McLobster” on one side of a McDonald’s sign, and “McHomard” on the other side. (Yes, “homard” is French for “lobster.”) Street signs read “Rue Main Street” or “Rue St. George Street.” The friendly staff at each tourist information office will typically greet you with, “Hello, français ou anglais?” (“French or English?”) and they speak both languages interchangeably.
There are two universities, one each in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, that offer French-language degree programs. If you plan to visit Canada’s Acadian coast, Université de Moncton’s Centre des Études Acadiennes (Acadian Studies Center) has a small museum that offers an excellent bilingual overview of Acadian history and culture. There’s another Acadian museum, the Musée Acadien de Caraquet, in Caraquet on the Acadian Peninsula. Either museum is a great place to begin your journey along the Acadian coast.
As you drive around the Acadian Peninsula north of Miramichi, you’ll feel more and more as though you have left the North American continent altogether. New Brunswick’s bilingual signage gradually fades away to French – all French, all the time. Acadian flags, quite popular from Moncton to Shediac and points north, suddenly appear in nearly every front yard, often with the last name of an original Acadian family superimposed on the blue, white and red flag with its single yellow star.
The Acadians were Catholic, and you’ll see ample evidence of the Catholic faith everywhere on the Acadian coast. Imposing churches and roadside shrines bring Catholic France to mind, silent testimony to the resilience of the Acadians’ faith.
And, of course, there’s the food. The Acadians made their living from the sea as well as from their farms, and many still do. Cod, herring, clams and lobster are extremely popular. Common side dishes include potatoes, turnips and cabbage. Don’t forget to try the sweet, soft molasses cookies (“galettes à la mélasse”) you’ll find in grocery stores and gift shops.
Wherever you stop along the Acadian coast, you'll discover that these settlers never lost faith in themselves. Stripped of their homeland, the Acadians returned to the land they loved as circumstances allowed and made the best of the bad hand they’d been dealt. Today, they stand proudly together, determined to preserve their heritage for future generations.
